Stamp Collage I: Natural History

The stamps used in this collage is from my father's collection. I took pictures of the stamps and created a collage in Picasa.

Following Manjushri- Round the Valley in 8 days IX

Day 8: Phulchoki to Pharping

8:00 am – 4:00 pm (Sunday. April 18, 2010)

52

In the beginning was the Tao.

All things issue from it;

all things return to it.

To find the origin,

trace back the manifestations.

When you recognize the children

and find the mother,

you will be free of sorrow.

If you close your mind in judgements

and traffic with desires,

your heart will be troubled.

If you keep your mind from judging

and aren't led by the senses,

your heart will find peace.

Seeing into darkness is clarity.

Knowing how to yield is strength.

Use your own light

and return to the source of light.

This is called practicing eternity.

Map of eastern area of Phulchoki (Click to enlarge)

The trail to Lele forks out from the Phulchoki road at the first hairpin bend when coming from Godaveri. If descending from Phulchoki be on a lookout for a major trail that forks out to the left right next to a ravine. The trail to Lele forks out to the right from the stream trail around 5 minutes after leaving the road. If you come to an underground water tank or a huge tree (see picture), you have gone too far.

The trail climbs steeply upwards and meets the ridge after half an hour. At the ridge there are a bunch of trails that fork out. One keeps on going south along the ridge. Another one goes down the ravine to the west. Yet another goes north along the ridge and another one goes northwest along the contours. You can either go down the ravine or take the northwest trail. The ravine trail will bring you to a dirt road and habitation in 10 minutes. From there, you will have to walk along the road itself through villages. The northwest trail continues through reforested pine forest along the ridge to the north of Lele Valley. It meets the dirt road coming from Lele after around half an hour. It should take around one and a half hours to get to Lele either way.

Lele is traditionally a Newar town at the head of a narrow river valley. There are a couple of shops and some places to eat here. From here you walk on the metalled road to Tikabhairab sharing the road with the countless number of tippers carrying stone from the countless number of stone quarries in the area.

Fields near Lele

Lele

One hour along this road should bring you to Tikabhairab, a small town with an interesting temple at the bank of Nallu Khola. This temple dedicated to Bhairab is a huge stone slab on one side and a painted fierce face on the other. Bhairab is a fierce incarnation of Lord Shiva and is quintessentially a Newar deity.

Tikabhairab

Tikabhairab

One of the many stone quarries in the Lele-Tikabhairab area

From Tika Bhairab continue along the road after crossing the stream. Leave the first fork that comes to the right. At the next intersection take right. Walk along this road for 10 minutes and then take a ridge trail that will bring you to Tallo Buryanchali, a small Tamang settlement. There is a road that goes down from Tallo Buryanchali just past a small Buddhist shrine at the edge of the village. You can either take the road which winds through villages or take a ridge trail through cultivation. In either case you should be at Dukuchap within one and a half hours. From here take the road down to Danuwargaun and then to Damodarghat (very few locals seem to be acquainted with that name though). Here you will make the second Bagmati crossing if you travelled via Baghdwar in Shivapuri. And it will be quite a contrast.

Buddhist shrine at Tallo Buryanchali

Trail from Tallo Buryanchali to Dukuchap

Bagmati River at Damodar Ghat, suspension bridge visible

Bagmati River

There is a suspension bridge across the Bagmati River. From the opposite side you can either walk to Dakshinkali and then take the bus to Pharping or you can walk to Pharping via Tashi Gumba. Both the trails will go past settlements and farmlands. It takes one and a half hours to get to Dakshinkali and two hours to get to Pharping.Buses run frequently from Dakshinkali to Kathmandu.

Pharping

Back to the teashop

Tashi Gumba

However, be sure to stop at Chobhar and its caves to pay your last homage to Bodhisattwa Manjushri. It is here, where Chandrahasa cut the gorge to drain the pristine water to create an enchanting valley, that you leave the footsteps of Manjushri. It is here, among black water and plastic bags that you complete the pilgrimage around the Kathmandu Valley.

Chobhar Gorge

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Personal Notes:

Started pretty late. Took an hour to the forktail trail from the hut. Very passive monkeys. Overexcited squirrel. Kaleej pair. Very silent white-throated laughing-thrushes. Steep climb from the trail to the ridgeline. Took around an ½ hour to get there. One trail heads south along the ridge itself. Another trail to Lele heads down the ravine to the west. Another trail heads north along the ridge another heads NNW and follows the contour, The trail to Lele took us down to habitation in 20 minutes where we scared a buffalo and a herd of goats. Water tap and temple to the right. From hereon it’s a walk along the road to the west at the bottom of a river valley which gets progressively wider till Lele. Reforested pine forest on the northern hill, broadleafed forest on the southern hill. Had a good dal bhat meal at Lele. Lot of stone quarry on the way and of course a lot of tippers. Reached Lele around 11:00a. Tikabhairab around 12:00p. At the bank of Nallu khola that becomes Nakhu khola downstream. From thereon walked on a dirt road for 10 min and took a trail to Tallo Buryanchuli. A Buddhist shrine near the top. Tamang settlement. NW to Dukuchap and then to Damodarghat to make the Bagmati crossing at 2:30p. From thereon was an easy climb to the Tashi Gumba at Pikhel. Had tea at Didi’s place at 4:00p (husband: Narayan). Took a bus to Chobhar for pictures. Back to home at 5:30p.

43

The gentlest thing in the world

overcomes the hardest thing in the world.

That which has no substance

enters where there is no space.

This shows the value of non-action.

Teaching without words,

performing without actions:

that is the Master's way.

Following Manjushri- Round the Valley in 8 days VIII

Day 7: Panauti to Phulchoki

7:00 am – 4:00 pm (Saturday. April 17, 2010)

26

The heavy is the root of the light.

The unmoved is the source of all movement.

Thus the Master travels all day

without leaving home.

However splendid the views,

she stays serenely in herself.

Why should the lord of the country

flit about like a fool?

If you let yourself be blown to and fro,

you lose touch with your root.

If you let restlessness move you,

you lose touch with who you are.

Map of trail from Panauti to Phulchoki (Click to enlarge)

The bus from Panauti to Parkhachour leaves at 7:00 am. The road is along a narrow river valley of Bebar Khola. It is a pleasant 45 minutes ride through fields and traditional villages. After disembarking at Parkhalchour, take the dirt road that forks out to the left at Parkhalchour bus stop. After around 15 minutes of walking leave the road and take the ridge trail to the left. The entire trek will be a ridge walk on a well defines trail from here on until Phulchoki.

The trail passes through villages and after around half an hour you come to 2049m (see map). Just before this point is the last hut. Be sure to refill you water bottles here. At 2049m there is a grassy trail that diverges to the right. Keep going straight along the ridge. Here the direction changes from SW to SSW. It is a pretty steep climb for sometime from here but it levels out soon enough only to climb steeply again before 2369m (see map). From here it is a joyride for the most part of the trek. The trail follows the eastern ridge of Phulchoki from here. It passes through beautiful rhododendron forest and steep grasslands to the left (southern slope). After around half an hour there is a spot marked by small stone smeared with vermillion. At this almost pagan worship spot, the trail forks. The right one goes to Phulchoki. It climbs down for a short distance only to catch the ridge again. If you are going downhill for more than 10 minutes chances are you are on the woodcutter trail that goes down into the ravine below. From here it is a steep climb for around half an hour to Phulchoki. This trail passes through a rocky area and just past the rocky area, the trail meets the dirt road from Godaveri. Taking left here should get you to the top of Phulchoki in 10 minutes. There are a small shrine dedicated to Goddess Phulchoki here, a huge telecommunication tower and an army barrack. The walk from Parkhalchour to Phulchoki takes around 4 hours.

Forest of Phulchoki

Shrine dedicated to Goddess Phulchoki at the peak

Telecommunication tower at Phulchoki peak

Phulchoki is the highest hill on the Kathmandu Valley rim and the forests around it is hands down the most beautiful and diverse forest in the valley. It has been declared an “Important Bird Area” by Bid Life International. On a good day it is not surprising to come across around 70 species of birds here. Some of the celebrities include Spiny Babbler (endemic to Nepal), Blue-naped Pitta, Crested Serpent Eagle, Long-billed Thrush, Pied Thrush, Cutia. Griffon sightings are not uncommon from the peak and Black Eagle is very commonly seen above the forest canopy. Barking deer, Hoarybellied Himalayan Squirrel and Rhesus Macaque are commonly sighted. Himalayan Yellow-throated Marten and Common Leopard are seen infrequently. Common Giant Flying Squirrel and Binturong is also reported from this area. Credit has to be given the Naudhara Community forest User Group for the sustainable conservation of this area.

From the top of Phulchoki you have to walk down the dirt road. Around half an hour down this road there is a flat section of road with a small pond to the right. It is not a bad place to camp. The trail to this area from the top has been closed for years now as there are minefields around this area.

"Minefields Danger"- A huge tract of forest below Phulchoki peak is a minefield (April 2009)

However another hour down the road at the 7km to Phulchoki milestone there is a small shed and a flat place right next to it which is much better for camping

Another option is to walk down to Godaveri for camp or lodge. One doesn’t need to walk along the road to get to Godaveri. Past the shed be on a lookout for a well used trail that forks out to the right where the electricity cable intersects the road. This trail ends up at the Naudhara temple area in about an hour. There is a temple dedicated to Goddess Phulchoki, a small pond and 9 water spouts there. (Hence the name Naudhara)

The Phulchoki hut at 7km to Phulchoki milestone

Indian Pipistrelle at Phulchoki hut

The temple dedicated to Goddess Phulchoki at Naudhara, Godaveri

Naudhara (Nine water spouts), Godaveri (May 2010)

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Personal Notes:

Busride from Panauti to Parkhalchour. Good road devoid of traffic. Narrow River Valley. Ride around an hour. Start walking at around 8. Head SW up a steep ridge with Phulchoki Khola to the right. Takes half hour to leave the habitation and get into the forest. Some diverging trails but if one keeps to the ridge one is on the correct trail. Head westwards on the major ridge to the east of Phulchoki. Trail littered with rhododendron petals. Trail is gentle. Major bifurcation at a place with stones smeared with vermillion powder. Right one is the correct trail. A middle-aged man heading down shows us this trail. Reach Phulchoki around 12:45. Overcast by now. Minefields still not cleared. Theft under control in Godaveri. Played table tennis at the army camp. Around 150 Xavierian on a hiking trip. Get down to the hut at the 7 km to Phukchoki mark around 3. Jay arrives at 5:00p with momos and water. Bats in the shed. Good fire from 8:00 pm to 9:30 pm. Rain during the night. A lot of nocturnal activity outside the tent. Monkeys present too. Black Eagle. Good day.

Following Manjushri- Round the Valley in 8 days VII

Day 6: Chisapani to Panauti

7:00 am – 6:00 pm (Friday. April 16 2010)

22

If you want to become whole,

let yourself be partial.

If you want to become straight,

let yourself be crooked.

If you want to become full,

let yourself be empty.

If you want to be reborn,

let yourself die.

If you want to be given everything,

give everything up.

The Master, by residing in the Tao,

sets an example for all beings.

Because he doesn't display himself,

people can see his light.

Because he has nothing to prove,

people can trust his words.

Because he doesn't know who he is,

people recognize themselves in him.

Because he has no goad in mind,

everything he does succeeds.

When the ancient Masters said,

"If you want to be given everything,

give everything up,"

they weren't using empty phrases.

Only in being lived by the Tao can you be truly yourself.

Map of road from Nagarkot to Panauti (Click to enlarge)

Take the Shivapuri Circuit road from Chisapani. Shortly past Chisapani, there are two small lakes: Sano Dhap and Thulo Dhap. This area is particularly good for wildlife. It takes around 2 hours to get to Jhule from Chisapani. Here you leave the road and take a well used trail down to Jhule. There is small restaurant here. The trail meets a village dirt road a little below the restaurant. This road goes through Chauki Bhanjyang (places to eat and shops), Jarsingpauwa (shops), Kattike (shops) and then on to Nagarkot. It is a pleasant village walk along a low gradient road till Kattike. Here the road climbs up steeply to Nagarkot. If you are lucky or if time yourself (2:00 pm and 4:00 pm is when buses from Sankhu gets to Kattike), you might be able to catch a bus to Nagarkot from Kattike. Without the busride the walk from Chisapani to Nagarkot takes around 7 hours.

Road from Chisapani to Jhule (November 2007)

Signpost at Jhule

Signpost at Jhule

Jarsingpauwa

The best thing to do at Nagarkot is to stay there, or take the bus to Kamalbinayak, Bhaktapur and then to Jagati and then to Panauti. If you decide to stay at Nagarkot, you can continue the village walk past the view tower, Nala, Banepa, Khadpu to Panauti the next day.

There a couple of lodges at Panauti and very few places to camp. If you get to Panauti before 4:00 pm, there is a bus that goes to Lakuri Bhanjyang at that time. There are a bunch of places to camp there and you can climb to Phulchoki, the highest hill in the valley rim, from there the next morning. It is also a popular place for rave parties that get organized once in a while. Or you can stay in Panauti itself and take the morning bus to Parkhalchour to start the trek to Phulchoki.

Panauti (January 2010)

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Personal Notes:

Overcast day. 3 hrs to Jhule. Checked for spoor in and around the lake at Double Bhanjyang. None. Big swifts though. A good tree to “sit up” for in the southern end of the lake. Lot of kaleej. 2 unpaired ones too. Only male. Nesting time? No barking deer. Pretty tedious walk from there to Nagarkot. Had a dog follow us from Jarsingpauwa to Kattike. (Shorter route back from Chisapani. Walk to haibung VDC or Pati Bhanjyang and then a bus to Jorpati) Got to Kattike around 2. Nagarkot around 3.Bus to Kamalbinayak, then to Jagati and then a bus to Panauti. Very small bus stop at Banepa. Rooftop ride. IT park without even a sign. Beautiful SOS Balgram. Stayed in a lodge. Bus leaves from Sankhu to Nagarkot via Kattike at 3 pm. Gets to Kattike around 4 pm. Another one gets there around 2 pm. Bus to Lakuri Bhanjyang from Panauti leaves every evening at 4:00pm.

Following Manjushri- Round the Valley in 8 days VI

Day 5: Kakani to Chisapani

6:00 am – 7:00 pm (Thursday. April 15, 2010)

13

Success is as dangerous as failure.

Hope is as hollow as fear.

What does it mean that success is a dangerous as failure?

Whether you go up the ladder or down it,

you position is shaky.

When you stand with your two feet on the ground,

you will always keep your balance.

What does it mean that hope is as hollow as fear?

Hope and fear are both phantoms

that arise from thinking of the self.

When we don't see the self as self,

what do we have to fear?

See the world as your self.

Have faith in the way things are.

Love the world as your self;

then you can care for all things.

Map of Shivapuri-Nagarjun National Park (Click to enlarge)

From the International Scout Training Center, there is a trail to the east. This trail meets the Shivapuri road after around 45 minutes. Take left here. The road which is actually more of a trail passes through dense forest. Also note that it is one of the best places in Kathmandu Valley for mountain biking. As a matter of fact the entire Shivapuri road is great for that matter. This area is teeming with wildlife and though birdlife is plenty, birdwatching is not too easy owing to the dense forest. If you make an early start from Kakani, you should expect to see lot of barking deer and kaleej pheasant on this road. There is another intersection in the road after half an hour. Take left here. After a couple of minutes a road goes downhill from the left. If you avoid that road, you should come to another intersection. This is the main Shivapuri Circuit road.

The entry gate to International Scout Training Center, Kakani.

Tweedy, a Tamang kid at Maidan

From here there are two ways to continue the journey. The first one is taking left here. If you do this be prepared to make a run for Chisapani from thereon as it will not take less than 7 hours to get there. And if it gets dark along the way you will either have to climb down to the nearby habitation which isn’t very far or camp at the road itself which is not very advisable. Chisapani lies on the trekking route to Langtang and is hence full of the usual hustle and bustle of a tourist village. It also offers beautiful views to the mountain to the north.

Chisapani from Shivapuri road

Sunset from Chisapani (November 2007)

Chisapani (November 2007)

Mountain range from Chisapani (November 2007)

Winter morning at Chisapani (November 2007)

Another option is to right on the road. This road passes should take you to Nagi Gumba at the southern slopes of Shivapuri in less than 5 hours. This road is supposed to be one of the better places in Kathmandu Valley for birdwatching. There are spots to camp around Nagi Gumba. It is also an ideal place to camp as it offers one of the best views of the Kathmandu Valley. Start early the next day from here. The climb to Shivapuri peak is through very well defined trails and should take around 3 hours. At the patchy grasslands along the trail make sure to scan the sky for raptors. You will not be disappointed. Right near the top you will come to Bagdwar, the origin of the River Bagmati, the main river of the Kathmandu Valley. There are a couple of shrines, a small cave and a shed here. It is a steep climb to the top from here. Just before the top there is a trail that goes northwards and meets the northern section of the Shivapuri Circuit Road after around an hour. Take right where the trail meets the road, and it should bring you to Chisapani in around 4 hours.

One of the grassland on the way to Shivapuri peak (February 2010)

Nagi Gumba, Shivapuri (February 2010)

Forest of Shivapuri from the trail to the peak (February 2010)

Rhododendron, Shivapuri (February 2010)

Baghdwar, Shivapuri (February 2010)

A small cave in Baghdwar (February 2010)

Another waterspot with Shiva's head in Baghdwar (February 2010)

White Rhododendron, Shivapuri peak (February 2010)

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Personal Notes:

Got to the Shivapuri Circuit Road in around 45 min. Took the road (more of a trail)on the northern side, Beautiful forest teeming with wildlife. Lot of barking deer and kaleej pheasant. Dinesh said it would take around 3 hrs to get to Chisapani which was by all means the most exorbitant underestimation, which seem to be the usual practice among most people to whom we asked for direction. Got to the Shivapuri Village Resort bifurcation around 9:00 am. Walk was getting a little monotonous. After the eastern main circuit road junction another road is buing built. Just past Bhalu Katne Danda took a bus till Maidanat around 12. Ate noodles at SunilBlom’s house. Gave us a really good shorter direction till Chisapani. Left Maidan at 2. Got to Chisapani via Maidan-Chagaun-Paargaun-Taargaun-Ralche Danda-Circuit Road. Got to Chisapaniat 7. Hated the ambience at the lodge we are staying at. Stuffy and too city. Very tiring day.

Animals/Birds seen: Lots of barking deer and kaleej pheasant.

34

The great Tao flows everywhere.

All things are born from it,

yet it doesn't create them.

It pours itself into its work,

yet it makes no claim.

It nourishes infinite worlds,

yet it doesn't hold on to them.

Since it is merged with all things

and hidden in their hearts,

it can be called humble.

Since all things vanish into it

and it alone endures,

it can be called great.

It isn't aware of its greatness;

thus it is truly great.