Day 6: Chisapani to Panauti
7:00 am – 6:00 pm (Friday. April 16 2010)
22
If you want to become whole,
let yourself be partial.
If you want to become straight,
let yourself be crooked.
If you want to become full,
let yourself be empty.
If you want to be reborn,
let yourself die.
If you want to be given everything,
give everything up.
The Master, by residing in the Tao,
sets an example for all beings.
Because he doesn't display himself,
people can see his light.
Because he has nothing to prove,
people can trust his words.
Because he doesn't know who he is,
people recognize themselves in him.
Because he has no goad in mind,
everything he does succeeds.
When the ancient Masters said,
"If you want to be given everything,
give everything up,"
they weren't using empty phrases.
Only in being lived by the Tao can you be truly yourself.
Map of road from Nagarkot to Panauti (Click to enlarge)
Take the Shivapuri Circuit road from Chisapani. Shortly past Chisapani, there are two small lakes: Sano Dhap and Thulo Dhap. This area is particularly good for wildlife. It takes around 2 hours to get to Jhule from Chisapani. Here you leave the road and take a well used trail down to Jhule. There is small restaurant here. The trail meets a village dirt road a little below the restaurant. This road goes through Chauki Bhanjyang (places to eat and shops), Jarsingpauwa (shops), Kattike (shops) and then on to Nagarkot. It is a pleasant village walk along a low gradient road till Kattike. Here the road climbs up steeply to Nagarkot. If you are lucky or if time yourself (2:00 pm and 4:00 pm is when buses from Sankhu gets to Kattike), you might be able to catch a bus to Nagarkot from Kattike. Without the busride the walk from Chisapani to Nagarkot takes around 7 hours.
Road from Chisapani to Jhule (November 2007)
Signpost at Jhule
Signpost at Jhule
Jarsingpauwa
The best thing to do at Nagarkot is to stay there, or take the bus to Kamalbinayak, Bhaktapur and then to Jagati and then to Panauti. If you decide to stay at Nagarkot, you can continue the village walk past the view tower, Nala, Banepa, Khadpu to Panauti the next day.
There a couple of lodges at Panauti and very few places to camp. If you get to Panauti before 4:00 pm, there is a bus that goes to Lakuri Bhanjyang at that time. There are a bunch of places to camp there and you can climb to Phulchoki, the highest hill in the valley rim, from there the next morning. It is also a popular place for rave parties that get organized once in a while. Or you can stay in Panauti itself and take the morning bus to Parkhalchour to start the trek to Phulchoki.
Panauti (January 2010)
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Personal Notes:
Overcast day. 3 hrs to Jhule. Checked for spoor in and around the lake at Double Bhanjyang. None. Big swifts though. A good tree to “sit up” for in the southern end of the lake. Lot of kaleej. 2 unpaired ones too. Only male. Nesting time? No barking deer. Pretty tedious walk from there to Nagarkot. Had a dog follow us from Jarsingpauwa to Kattike. (Shorter route back from Chisapani. Walk to haibung VDC or Pati Bhanjyang and then a bus to Jorpati) Got to Kattike around 2. Nagarkot around 3.Bus to Kamalbinayak, then to Jagati and then a bus to Panauti. Very small bus stop at Banepa. Rooftop ride. IT park without even a sign. Beautiful SOS Balgram. Stayed in a lodge. Bus leaves from Sankhu to Nagarkot via Kattike at 3 pm. Gets to Kattike around 4 pm. Another one gets there around 2 pm. Bus to Lakuri Bhanjyang from Panauti leaves every evening at 4:00pm.
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