Day 5: Kakani to Chisapani
6:00 am – 7:00 pm (Thursday. April 15, 2010)
13
Success is as dangerous as failure.
Hope is as hollow as fear.
What does it mean that success is a dangerous as failure?
Whether you go up the ladder or down it,
you position is shaky.
When you stand with your two feet on the ground,
you will always keep your balance.
What does it mean that hope is as hollow as fear?
Hope and fear are both phantoms
that arise from thinking of the self.
When we don't see the self as self,
what do we have to fear?
See the world as your self.
Have faith in the way things are.
Love the world as your self;
then you can care for all things.
Map of Shivapuri-Nagarjun National Park (Click to enlarge)
From the International Scout Training Center, there is a trail to the east. This trail meets the Shivapuri road after around 45 minutes. Take left here. The road which is actually more of a trail passes through dense forest. Also note that it is one of the best places in Kathmandu Valley for mountain biking. As a matter of fact the entire Shivapuri road is great for that matter. This area is teeming with wildlife and though birdlife is plenty, birdwatching is not too easy owing to the dense forest. If you make an early start from Kakani, you should expect to see lot of barking deer and kaleej pheasant on this road. There is another intersection in the road after half an hour. Take left here. After a couple of minutes a road goes downhill from the left. If you avoid that road, you should come to another intersection. This is the main Shivapuri Circuit road.
From here there are two ways to continue the journey. The first one is taking left here. If you do this be prepared to make a run for Chisapani from thereon as it will not take less than 7 hours to get there. And if it gets dark along the way you will either have to climb down to the nearby habitation which isn’t very far or camp at the road itself which is not very advisable. Chisapani lies on the trekking route to Langtang and is hence full of the usual hustle and bustle of a tourist village. It also offers beautiful views to the mountain to the north.
The entry gate to International Scout Training Center, Kakani.
Tweedy, a Tamang kid at Maidan
From here there are two ways to continue the journey. The first one is taking left here. If you do this be prepared to make a run for Chisapani from thereon as it will not take less than 7 hours to get there. And if it gets dark along the way you will either have to climb down to the nearby habitation which isn’t very far or camp at the road itself which is not very advisable. Chisapani lies on the trekking route to Langtang and is hence full of the usual hustle and bustle of a tourist village. It also offers beautiful views to the mountain to the north.
Chisapani from Shivapuri road
Sunset from Chisapani (November 2007)
Chisapani (November 2007)
Mountain range from Chisapani (November 2007)
Winter morning at Chisapani (November 2007)
Another option is to right on the road. This road passes should take you to Nagi Gumba at the southern slopes of Shivapuri in less than 5 hours. This road is supposed to be one of the better places in Kathmandu Valley for birdwatching. There are spots to camp around Nagi Gumba. It is also an ideal place to camp as it offers one of the best views of the Kathmandu Valley. Start early the next day from here. The climb to Shivapuri peak is through very well defined trails and should take around 3 hours. At the patchy grasslands along the trail make sure to scan the sky for raptors. You will not be disappointed. Right near the top you will come to Bagdwar, the origin of the River Bagmati, the main river of the Kathmandu Valley. There are a couple of shrines, a small cave and a shed here. It is a steep climb to the top from here. Just before the top there is a trail that goes northwards and meets the northern section of the Shivapuri Circuit Road after around an hour. Take right where the trail meets the road, and it should bring you to Chisapani in around 4 hours.
One of the grassland on the way to Shivapuri peak (February 2010)
Nagi Gumba, Shivapuri (February 2010)
Forest of Shivapuri from the trail to the peak (February 2010)
Rhododendron, Shivapuri (February 2010)
Baghdwar, Shivapuri (February 2010)
A small cave in Baghdwar (February 2010)
Another waterspot with Shiva's head in Baghdwar (February 2010)
White Rhododendron, Shivapuri peak (February 2010)
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Personal Notes:
Got to the Shivapuri Circuit Road in around 45 min. Took the road (more of a trail)on the northern side, Beautiful forest teeming with wildlife. Lot of barking deer and kaleej pheasant. Dinesh said it would take around 3 hrs to get to Chisapani which was by all means the most exorbitant underestimation, which seem to be the usual practice among most people to whom we asked for direction. Got to the Shivapuri Village Resort bifurcation around 9:00 am. Walk was getting a little monotonous. After the eastern main circuit road junction another road is buing built. Just past Bhalu Katne Danda took a bus till Maidanat around 12. Ate noodles at SunilBlom’s house. Gave us a really good shorter direction till Chisapani. Left Maidan at 2. Got to Chisapani via Maidan-Chagaun-Paargaun-Taargaun-Ralche Danda-Circuit Road. Got to Chisapaniat 7. Hated the ambience at the lodge we are staying at. Stuffy and too city. Very tiring day.
Animals/Birds seen: Lots of barking deer and kaleej pheasant.
34
The great Tao flows everywhere.
All things are born from it,
yet it doesn't create them.
It pours itself into its work,
yet it makes no claim.
It nourishes infinite worlds,
yet it doesn't hold on to them.
Since it is merged with all things
and hidden in their hearts,
it can be called humble.
Since all things vanish into it
and it alone endures,
it can be called great.
It isn't aware of its greatness;
thus it is truly great.
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